The one with "la Gioia di fare niente"

There are many things which I love about Florence, among them are:

• Cobblestones (even if they occasionally make me fall)
• The charm of cracked plaster on ancient walls
• Prendere un Cafe
• Piazzas in which to sit & relax
• Beauty everywhere!

• Great restaurants
• Constant flattery
• Music wafting down the streets
• Telling the time by bells
• Long drawn-out dinners
• Double-cheek-kissing when greeting friends
• An air of greatness which refuses to be outdated

But what comes to light the most as I wander the streets is how much more it seems that Italians enjoy life, moment by moment. You see old men strolling through a Piazza slowly, thin hands behind their back, or a cigar in hand, pensive & mindful. Young lovers hold one another close as they walk together or stop to kiss passionately without regard.

Fathers take time to sit in a Piazza with their child & speak about life. People of all ages walk slowly & enjoy gelato. People stop to listen & appreciate the music being played in the streets, & no one has anywhere which is more important to be than directly in that moment.

Things are hardly perfect, but the Italians don't act as though that they are, nor that they need to be. I feel that they laugh more freely.

The one where it's midnight around a table in Firenze

A good friend of mine invited me to a dinner last night which proved to be perfectly interesting. While it was supposed to be a number of other people, it ended up being just my friend, myself, & his two business associates; this ended up being a blessing in disguise, because I don't know that I could have followed the conversation had it been any more -- it was entirely in Italian. I was glad to be able to follow along, though I'd hardly say I added a terrible amount to the subjects conversed. We ate at Osteria dell'Olio, a neauveau Italian place near the Duomo, their website begins to give you a taste of the ambiance they provide (we were seated in the red booth in their picture below).

As I mentioned, throughout the dinner Italian - vibrant Italian - was spoken rapidly: I focused intently in order to keep current on the conversation. The conversation spanned from business, politics, Amanda Knox (aka: lack of justice), Biometrics, & a mild amount of gossip. At one point, they were speaking of a person who shall remain unnamed, & they used the phrase "non ha le pelle" which means "he doesn't have the skin". I really enjoy picking up colloquial phrases as such, they relate to ours, yet are a touch different. Similar to the Tuscan way to say "good-luck" "In bocca al lupe" or, "in the mouth of the wolf".

I'm sure I don't have to say it, but the food was delicious, after several glasses of wine & a little bread, our first course came - an eggplant dish which encased a mozzarella center & was placed upon a tomato reduction. Next an enormous platter of Bistecca Fiorentina was brought out for the table - I can't even describe how perfectly rare this tender cut of meat was, I can only suggest you find your way to Florence to personally try it!

Italian men are very attentive & appreciative of pretty women, that type of flattery is hardly wasted on me. My wine glass was dutifully filled whenever it began to get too low, & I certainly couldn't complain at that, it was a lovely & boldly tannic Tuscan Rosso. Although I added only infrequent & broken sentences, I received only kind smiles for my efforts. Over cafe they all lit cigarettes & relaxed their stance. The image of wasps of smoke drifting over & around empty wine glasses, kerchiefs, a typical Tuscan hat & their own sharp attire & demeanor was quite intoxicating....even romantic or enchanting in a very Casablanca way. Regardless, I doubt it will be an image I'll be able to keep far from my mind for some time.

What I took from this evening primarily, is that as with this fresco below which I found upon a wall of the old Midici palace, sometimes it's the cracks which give an object its character, the wrinkles & ingrained habits from the centuries which impart such a compelling taste upon our palate. As I said, it was a mentally intoxicating evening.

The one with mercato centrale

I recently visited Firenze, my favorite Italian city. The moment I stepped off the train at the San Maria Novella train station a smile took hold of my face, I instantly felt as though I was where I was supposed to be. I did; however, have to continuously remind myself to slow down as I walked through the city the first day. Life is so rushed normally, as Americans we go at a rapid pace & always have somewhere to be or something to be doing. I reminded myself several times that I had no agenda, & consciously slowed my step to the Italian lifestyle. Taking the time to take in & enjoy the city brought me much balance, I felt more aware, more alive, than I have in quite a while. One of my first stops walking around Firenze was my favorite spot: il mercato centrale. This is the central market, an indoor fresh market which I used to visit daily for my fresh fruit, produce, & bread.

It's within the area of San Lorenzo, & was constructed there as the Florentine population was growing in order to serve as the largest indoor fresh market. Sadly, as supermarkets made their way into Italian society, the use of the market declined; however, tourism as well as Florentines still living in the center have kept the market alive & active. The top section of the market was supposed to reflect that of a train station, there are huge windows lined with red metal & a green sky-lit roof; very sadly, the top portion of the market is currently being restored, but I look forward to the day I go back & it's open, beautiful as ever. The products here are so fresh, so delicious, it's nearly unbelievable: our American produce doesn't hold the slightest flame to it.

Walking through il mercato makes anyone hungry, the smell & look of all the fresh food is so inviting. Here are some pictures I took while strolling through.

I got dried fruit nearly daily when I visited, the Mele (apple) & Kiwi were my favorite!

As Americans, generally ignorant that our meat is part of what was a living animal, are generally scieved out at the display of whole or non-disguised animals. Pear & Pecorino Ravioli, absolutely Delicious!!

Sadly, the fruit vendor I used to go to was on the upper level & I consequently couldn't find him. While I lived in Florence, he would remember who I was, what I usually bought, & would throw in fruits I hadn't bought for me to try. One of my favorites was the little orange shown below. They're green on the outside during the fall, but turn orange during the winter. They're perfectly orange on the inside & slightly sour; they're my favorite orange in the world, & I was glad another vendor carried them.

The one with Brunelleschi's Dome

I just finished reading a book by Ross King about the unbelievable magnificence which is Il Duomo in Florence Italy: Brunelleschi's Dome.

In order to get from my apartment to the University were I was studying, I was privelaged to walk through Piazza Duomo several times a day. Many times the Piazza was littered with tourists, with which I became very agitated since they were unaware of their surroundings simply staring upward in utter awe. It is to this day the largest dome constructed in the classical manner; as much as I could easily get upset, on those rare occasions when I would stroll through & be the only person int he Piazza, I couldn't deny how breathtaking a sight it was. It is perfection of architecture: lacking & needing nothing at all to instill a great sense of wonder within you.

Simply reading about a facet of the city I know so well & long for, initially drove me to read the book; however, there were many interesting points to be found within it, both on cultural & historical notes.

"Hoping to make a name for themselves, these new inhabitatnts of Babylonia took it upon themselves to found a great city named Babel, "the gate of God": "And they said, Go to, let us build us a city, and a tower, whose top may reach unton heaven"." (100). The Story of the founding of Babylon is quite funny when you consider its consequences, & the ensuing etemology of the word Babel. This word eventually found its way into the 2006 bomb of a movie "Babel" which was more horrifically awkward than anything else. Still I found it's allusion a good forumn on which to think, & I appreciate the author's reference of it espceically when considering the scope of Fioravanti's vision.

Other allusions I enjoyed include one to Dante's Devine Comedy: the buliding of the dome was described as "di giro in giro" or "circle by circle", which was a phrase Dante used to describe the levels of both Paradise & Hell. I find the notion of the encircling, or rather leading to deeper & more profound truths quite intoxicating. I also LOVE the parallel used near the end of the book to describe how being within the dome brings "tranquility of the soul" 164; walking through the pristinely quiet Bisilica brings to mind "grace under pressure", what a beautifully fitting analogy for such a magnificent triumph.

Filippo Brunelleschi brought to life a vision which has yet to be surpassed nearly 600 years later, his masterpiece inspires all forms of Ingegno (Genius) & is a vision which will forever permeate my psyche.

The one with Firenze

I am so excited at this moment! My cousin (who's a sophomore in college) just called me to let me know that he has decided where to study abroad next year: Italy -- Florence! For those of you who don't know, I studied & lived in the heart of Firenze for two semesters (a collaborative 10 months), it's relatively unprecedented as most study-abroad students only go for one semester -- it simply never crossed my mind to choose one!

This being said, it's a very bitter-sweet moment. Sono inamorato con (I am in LOVE with) Firenze to an extent I cannot begin to explain; I feel as though the city is a part of me, the culture, the very stones which make up the ancient buildings acknowledge me as if to say "you're finally here". Due to this adoration, I am both excited to share my understanding of the city, culture, & experiance as wel as all the best restaurants with him, while simultaneously I feel a twang or remorse & jealousy that he'll be there & I will not.


I will live in Florence one day, but until then, it is the pain of being separated from a loved one which I feel when I think of mia Firenze.

Here are some of my favoriet memories/places of the city:

One of my favorite pictures from my entire travels! These are my roomates from 2nd semester, we were on the way back from clubbing to our apartment, & I learned a really cool trick about the Duomo from a guy I knew, so I HAD to show my friends (can figure it out?) Kristen (my love on far right) asked a passer-by to take this picture -- I'm dead center, the only one in a dress :)

The picture above on the left is of a "la Pieta" on Via di Greci, which was directly adjacent to Via di Benci where my apartment was. In addtion, one night/morning when we were out particularly late, we decided to hop over the Arno which was just down our street, & walk up to Piazza Michelangelo to watch the sunrise. The picture to the right is what I got on the walk back across the Arno -- Perfetto!

I because accustomed to waking to rining bells from the nearby Santa Croce, Basilica San Maria del Fiori, & the numerous other churches close-by; when paired with the sweet smells of espresso & cornetti drifting on the air, it couldn't have been more picturesque!

Ponte Vecchio -- the only post-WWII bridge in the city -- timeless

Directly across from my apartment was one of the most popular bars at the time, "The Red Garter" upon walking in, you'd see the sign above. We were the neighbors, we Loved them! <3>

My sister came to visit me, & one night I took her first to The Red Gater, and then after with the owner of the Red Garter, we went to a place which if I'm remembering correctly was called "The Red Dragon" nothing compared to the underground club "Blob", but it was still a cool little late-night bar, where -- as is aparent from the picture above -- my sister & Francesco kicked my ass in pool.

A night out in Florence would not be complete without a stop to the "Secret Bakery". There were several around the city; they were bakeries which baked during the night for the many small bars (coffee spots) around the city, they were open between 2-4 in the morning to sell hot Cornetti, Pizza, & other fabulous late-night food. You could only find out about them if a local told you where to find them: Thank God I had lots of Florentine friends, because there could not have been a more perfect end to my nights!

Clubbing in Florence was like nothing else! The night life was part of the culture, so in the spirit of cultral integration, we went out...A LOT! Above to the left is a picture of my friend G & I at Twice, he promoted it, so we were there before that party started. To the right are my roomies Erin, Lauren, & I at Astor, which was a popular bar during my 1st semester in Florence. Space, YAB, Maracana, Full UP, Central, The Lion's Fountain also topped my list of fav fab places to go!

Finally, I cannot speak about the places I love in mia Firenze without including Piazza Signoria! Above is a picture I took of Cellini's "Perseus Slaying Medusa". I walked through Piazza Signoria half a dozen times every single day -- easily. During the evning, you would walk through to see groups of friends meeting up & congregating while musicians played under the arches of the Galleria degli Uffizi. The melodies would articulate eloquently through the piazza & we would grab a gelato before sitting around the statues of the Renaissance to listen & chat quietly.

My cousin is coming home next weekend & I don't know if it's myself or him who's more excited to speak about everything! I hope to teach him helpful phrases which will help him in everything from ordering in a restaurant, to getting a drink, to grocery shopping, to silly little idioms. I'll joyfully share my Florence-street-savy with him & look forward to the next time I'm in "my city"; perhaps that will be visiting him!

Piu di qualcosa, mi lamento il sole Italiano.