The reason for which I was ardent to get to Assisi, is that my father was a Franciscan while he was studying at the seminary & later theology in order to become a priest; that is, until he met my mother. My father still went on to fulfill a career within the church & has always been incredibly spiritually oriented: that said, Assisi held a special place in my heart & mind.
Upon pulling into the Assisi train station I viewed the dome of a church from the window at which I was seated, logically, I decided to head in that direction. After following the above pictured pathway, at the end of which read in several feet tall lettering "Pax et Bonum" which roughly translates to "Peace & goodwill". Saint Francis realized that this statement & theology would not belong to one person, but would be of people uniting.The names lining each brick, I later learned, represented all of the people who assisted in creating this path as well as the town in which they were born. This path led me to what I would learn is Santa Maria degli Angeli, which houses the Porziuncola.
Entering the Basilica one cannot escape the smell of incense burning, as it happens, this is one of my favorite smells! Despite its grandeur from the outside, the church is strikingly bare, mostly white plaster. It is the privately commissioned side chapels which are elaborately decorated in frescoes & marble, there is none of the gold gilding which you see in St. Peter's to be found. To me this seemed fitting in that it was a simple elegance, one which was almost more aligned with nature. Walking towards the alter one hears acoustics of the monks chanting resonate against the walls & across the arched ceiling.
In the very center of the church, beneath the highest dome sits an ancient church: the Porziuncola. This chapel is terribly weathered from the centuries; however, there is something perfectly charming about it, mildly majestic. The inside holds no more than 20 people, lit only by candles a relic sits upon the humble alter. I found myself astounded as I watched old, devout woman grip the gate before the sacristy as they willed their knees to bend as to send their prayers to God for a moment. I couldn't help but think that it was by viewing such scenes that people came to better understand faith.
As one exits the Basilica, you are led down a corridor where a small garden is planted & the above statue stands. I enjoyed that the present Friars keep these two lovely residents. This path leads around to the small "Rose Chapel" where through a glass panel you can see a sign reading:
"Qui morti S. Francesco
3 Ottobre 1226"
"Here died Saint Francis
October 3, 1226"
There was a small slot in the glass into which people were sliding what I must assume were written prayers which all rested together upon the ground.
I would soon discover that I was actually quite on the outskirts of Assisi, which was a 5 minute bus ride up the side of a small mountainous landscape. I arrived & directly set out to find the Eremo delle Carceri, where St. Francis preached to the birds. After approximately 30 minutes of arduous hiking up a mountain, I resigned that this trip I would not find the Eremo, but that I would return on the my next trip -- with a Vespa.
The views over Assisi can hardly be contended with; the land below is attentively tended by farmers, & the city itself posses such a gentle charm that I found myself wishing to wander its winding streets for days. I never thought I'd find a city with more narrow & steep streets than Siena; yet, Assisi has claimed title. There are archways, flowers potted outside windows, & old dusty brick spanning every crack of the city.
One of my favorite pictures, was this pigeon silently dozing upon a lamp post.
While the Basilica of St. Francis above has been pictured innumerable times, it underwhelmed me. The extensive frescoes seems disconnected, as though they were unsure what they were to portray. I did however, find a chapel beneath the Basilica which enchanted me. There are very few windows & low vaulted ceilings, the space is dim save for candlelight. The ceilings are home to dark blue, orange, & gold frescoes, while the lower walls are left to marble & stone. Franciscan Friars give quite tours & in a vault below this is the tomb of St. Francis. Within the "Tomba di San Francesco" it seemed perfect: all was silent but for shuffling feet, there was old stone, candlelight & nothing more. At the center is the risen tomb of St. Francis, along the surrounding pillars are the tombs of the four original Franciscans, his companions: Fra Bernardo, Fra. Angelo, Fra. Masseo, Fr. Leone.
One certainly needs more than a day within Assisi; I had only the chance to see several of the dozens of churches, & found myself surprisingly thirsty for more. Saint Francis spoke, acted, & died upon the belief in Peace & Goodwill, it is exactly those two words which the whole city resonates.
If only to get lost in the streets, I can say I will return to Assisi again.
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